Painting Process

"Northern Pintail, Late Afternoon" - Gouache
To paint, you must
first learn how to draw.

"Sharon" - Graphite Pencil
In addition, painting with watercolor and gouache will help prepare you for oil painting.

"Sharon" - Graphite Pencil
In addition, painting with watercolor and gouache will help prepare you for oil painting.

"Northern Pintail, Late Afternoon" - Gouache
Materials:
Oils - Water Soluble
Preferred brands - Van Gogh, Holbein, or Windsor-Newton
Ground - Canvas primed with gesso
Brushes - Flat brushes: whatever feels right on your fingers when you are at the art store
Palette Working Area - Smooth plastic container with sides, coated Masonite board, or ceramic medical tray
Water - Spray bottle for misting the palette area, cup of water for brush cleaning and moistening
Easel - Big and durable. I made mine out of hardwoodand it's still working after 30 years.
Palette -
Alizarin Crimson
Burnt Sienna
Burnt Umber
Cadmium Red Medium
Cerulean Blue
Dioxanine Purple
Lemon
Mars Black
Naples Yellow
Napthal Red
Quinacridone Rose
Pthalocyanine (Pthalo) Blue
Pthalocyanine (Pthalo) Green
Raw Sienna
Raw Umber
Sap Green,
Titanium White
Ultramarine Blue
Van Dyke Brown
Vermillion
Viridian
Yellow Ochre
I paint using water-soluble oils.
Water soluble oils are exactly the same as traditional oils from an archival standpoint.
They are manufactured by the same reputable companies that make traditional oil paint.
When dry, they are oil paintings.
I use 3/4 wide flat brushes for the probably 90% of the painting.
At the the very end I use a 1/4 wide extra long flat brush for detail work.
The extra long part means that it will hold pigment longer than a shorter brush.
With flat brushes it's all about angle of contact, paint viscosity, and pressure.
Your hand controls everything.
The manner in which you make contact with the canvas directly affects what happens.
I use very little water when mixing and painting.
You start out with an accurate line drawing on your canvas.
This is a sketch from a different painting.

Pencil sketch on canvas
Sometimes merely designating the positions of the prominant elements of your composition is enough.
Oils - Water Soluble
Preferred brands - Van Gogh, Holbein, or Windsor-Newton
Ground - Canvas primed with gesso
Brushes - Flat brushes: whatever feels right on your fingers when you are at the art store
Palette Working Area - Smooth plastic container with sides, coated Masonite board, or ceramic medical tray
Water - Spray bottle for misting the palette area, cup of water for brush cleaning and moistening
Easel - Big and durable. I made mine out of hardwoodand it's still working after 30 years.
Palette -
Alizarin Crimson
Burnt Sienna
Burnt Umber
Cadmium Red Medium
Cerulean Blue
Dioxanine Purple
Lemon
Mars Black
Naples Yellow
Napthal Red
Quinacridone Rose
Pthalocyanine (Pthalo) Blue
Pthalocyanine (Pthalo) Green
Raw Sienna
Raw Umber
Sap Green,
Titanium White
Ultramarine Blue
Van Dyke Brown
Vermillion
Viridian
Yellow Ochre
I paint using water-soluble oils.
Water soluble oils are exactly the same as traditional oils from an archival standpoint.
They are manufactured by the same reputable companies that make traditional oil paint.
When dry, they are oil paintings.
I use 3/4 wide flat brushes for the probably 90% of the painting.
At the the very end I use a 1/4 wide extra long flat brush for detail work.
The extra long part means that it will hold pigment longer than a shorter brush.
With flat brushes it's all about angle of contact, paint viscosity, and pressure.
Your hand controls everything.
The manner in which you make contact with the canvas directly affects what happens.
I use very little water when mixing and painting.
You start out with an accurate line drawing on your canvas.
This is a sketch from a different painting.

Pencil sketch on canvas
Sometimes merely designating the positions of the prominant elements of your composition is enough.

